In my head this odyssey was broadly composed of five parts - the snowy north, the balmy south, Kyushu, Shikoku, and finally Honshu. Technically I've already done a bit of Honshu with Hiroshima last week but let's ignore that because I'm on part four, Shikoku, now which is all brand new to me! When planning I didn't even really know where to start with Japan's least visited main island so I left the itinerary to my travel agent. A large part of it is deep in the centre of the island in the Iya Valley and, along with Okinawa, was a large part of why I learned to drive: I knew I couldn't have these experiences without a car. That's not how I started my journey through the island though.

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